In the late 1950s-early 1960s, Elgin used two different, but related, internal systems for identifying its watches — one for manufacturing/sales, and the other for watch repair. Unfortunately, both systems are inadequate from the standpoint of a collector trying to identify and classify these watches. That is why the author of this page developed a simpler and more precise method for collectors to identify these watches.

1. Elgin’s first method was a 4 digit number followed by 3 letters. This was for manufacturing and sales purposes — it helped Elgin and its dealers identify the watch it was selling. An example is shown at the Image 1. Underneath the watch is the code “4443-SLS”. “4443” is the case number, which if unknown can be determined by taking apart the watch and looking inside the caseback (see Image 2). “SLS” stands for “Steel,” “Luminous,” and “Strap.” The first letter “S” identifies the color or material the case is made of (here, Steel); the “L” identifies the type of dial (here, Luminous, meaning has glow in the dark features); and the last “S” refers to the leather Strap the watch originally came with. Other examples of this method can be seen in Image 3.

This not very useful for collectors, however. The first letter — identifying case material — is obvious, since the caseback says what the watch is made of (“Stainless Steel”, “10k RGP”, etc.). Color is not really an issue either. Other than case refs. 2344, 4448, and 4455, most of these cases came in only one color and material. The bigger problem is the last two letters of the code. Case numbers 6852, 6853, and 9817 have more than one watch with a Luminous dial. So if we use “L”, what specific dial variation are we talking about? It’s unclear — and so it can’t identify every possible case/dial configuration. The last letter (“S” for leather strap, or “B” if it came with a metal band) is not useful either. Without the original box / papers, it’s impossible to know whether the watch originally came with a metal band or leather strap 60+ years ago — and even if we knew that, what difference does it make if it no longer exists?

2. Elgin’s other internal method of identifying its watches is described in Image 2, which comes from Elgin’s Cross Reference Chart. This method just uses the 4 digit case number and the case color (white or yellow). This was useful for watchmakers — and collectors today — who need to find the right color and size crown to repair a watch, for example. But that system can’t identify each specific case/dial configuration.

3. The system developed by this author does 3 things:

• First, where necessary, it groups watches together into “families” based on common case and dial designs, materials, sizes, and marketing by Elgin. For example, case ref. 6853 pulls together case refs. 4443 and 4449 into one “family” covering Elgin 27 jewel models “A” and “M”. This approach is based on evidence, with a bit of common sense. For example, case refs. 4450 and 4454 are not grouped into the same “family” even though Elgin marketed both as 27 jewel “N” models, because they have completely different case designs, materials, and sizes.

• Second, it relies on evidence that within a single “family,” Elgin used watch dials interchangeably in different case numbers. An example is Elgin 27 jewel model “E”, which includes case refs. 4430 and 6911. Wholesale catalogs from 1960 and 1961 offered the exact same model “E” dial in both cases 4430 and 6911—see Image 4 and Image 5. Another example is Elgin 27 jewel model “D”, which used the exact same dial in case refs. 6851 and 4441.

• This means we just need to know the case number and look at the dial to fully identify the watch. The “dial” part of the number within a “family” will always be the same regardless of case number. For example, if two watches with case numbers 6851 and 4441 use the same dial, the final number will always end the same: 6851.1 and 4441.1, with the “.1” at the end referring to the same dial.