10 tips for collecting Elgin’s 27 and 30 jewel automatic watches
10 Tips for Collecting Elgin’s 27 and 30 jewel automatic watches
Do not wind these watches! While it is possible to manually wind these watches using the crown, the mechanism is not really designed for that and can break. Instead, gently shake (or wear) the watch to allow the inner rotor to wind the watch as intended.
Do not wear a metal bracelet with these watches — use a leather strap instead. This may be controversial for some collectors, since Elgin originally sold many of these watches with metal bands. The problem is that the metal bands are generally made of stainless steel, which will damage (grind down) the lugs of softer metal cases made of solid gold, rolled gold plate over brass, etc. Exception: if the entire watch case (including lugs) is made of stainless steel, then a metal bracelet should be fine since the bracelet and lugs will be of similar hardness.
Find a good watchmaker who can service your watch. Inquire with any competent watchmaker who repairs wind up or automatic watches. If you don’t have anyone locally, please contact me for a recommendation of watchmakers who accept these watches for repair by mail.
Collect spare parts - especially working movements. These watches have not been manufactured in over 60 years, so most spare parts are hard to find and will need to be taken from other watches. Fortunately, these watches are not “that” rare, and examples that are running but have “problems” can be purchased regularly on eBay for reasonable prices, and used as donor watches for parts.
Related to the two points above: do not buy a broken (non-running) watch unless you have spare parts and someone who can repair it for you.
Do not try to open the watch case yourself unless you have expertise and the right tools. Too many of these watches (especially those with one-piece cases) have been scratched and hacked up by collectors trying to open them.
Avoid dropping these watches or getting them wet. While these watches were originally marketed as being water- and shock-resistant, it’s best not to push the limits of what vintage watches can handle.
Keep a copy of Elgin’s 1963 Cross Reference Chart handy. By looking at the case (reference) number you can determine what types of replacement parts (minute hand, second hand, crown, etc.) will fit your watch, many of which can be purchased on eBay or watch part suppliers. You should be able to identify your watch’s case (reference) number and other information by looking at the guide on the main page of this website.
Be patient. Some versions of these watches are quite rare — you can go years without seeing one for sale. As a group, the solid gold versions are generally the rarest, but certain other dial / case combinations are also very rare. These watches were only made for about 4 years, and were expensive when new — the cheapest cost a week’s wages for an average American worker — so many versions are difficult to find.
These are “chronometer quality” watches, and with proper service they will keep excellent time. Wear them proudly — they are the only full rotor automatic watches ever designed and made in America, and are both innovative and beautiful.